Water supply piping in a residential basement

Galvanized Pipe Replacement

The reason your 1963 ranch has pressure at one tap and a trickle at the next

Galvanized steel supply pipe was standard when Florissant was built out. It rusts from the inside, closing off a little more every year. By sixty years in, the opening can be a fraction of what it started as — and no fixture repair brings that back.

  • Whole-home and partial repipes
  • PEX and copper
  • Drywall openings kept minimal
  • Water back on the same day where possible

Is it time?

Three signs the pipe is the problem

Any one of these alone is a repair. Two or three together usually means the system, not the section.

Rusty water in the morning

Especially at the first draw of the day. That color is the inside of your supply pipe arriving at your tap.

Pressure that keeps dropping

Gradual, whole-house, worse every year. That is scale closing the pipe, and it does not reverse.

Repeat pinhole leaks

One pinhole is bad luck. The third one in two years means the pipe has reached the end of its service life.

Not sure it is the pipe? Start with our guide on why your water pressure is low — sometimes it is just an aerator.

Why it matters

What you get out of a repipe

Clean water at every tap

No more rust color, no metallic taste from the supply side, and no sediment shedding into your fixtures and appliances.

Pressure back where it should be

Full-diameter pipe means the shower does not drop to a trickle when the washing machine fills.

No more leak roulette

Replacing the system ends the cycle of opening a new wall every few months to chase the next pinhole.

And it shows up at resale

In a market full of 1960s houses with original galvanized, a documented repipe is a genuine differentiator on an inspection report.

New water supply lines run through a basement

PEX or copper

Which we would use in your house

Both are good. In a Florissant ranch or split-level the layout usually decides it.

PEX is flexible, so it can be routed through existing joist bays and wall cavities with far fewer openings to cut and patch. That matters enormously in a finished split-level, where the alternative is opening walls on three levels. It does not corrode and it handles freezing better than rigid pipe. Copper is rigid, costs more in both material and labor, and is proven over decades — some homeowners simply prefer it and that is a fair preference. For most Florissant repipes we recommend PEX for the reduced demolition alone.

How we work

What to expect when you call

  1. 01

    Assessment and scope

    We look at what you have, where it runs, and how much is accessible. That decides whether a partial repipe makes sense or the whole system should go.

  2. 02

    A written number

    Full scope, materials, how many wall openings, and what we patch versus what you finish. No allowance games.

  3. 03

    Install, test, restore

    New lines run and pressure tested, water back on the same day where possible, and access openings patched.

Free estimate

Get a repipe quote

Tell us the year the house was built and what you are seeing — rusty water, dropping pressure, or leaks that keep coming back.

Related: galvanized pipe explained, low water pressure, leak detection, water heater service, signs you need a plumber

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Got a plumbing problem that is not getting better on its own?

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